If you've been dealing with sputtering faucets or a pump that kicks on every five seconds, installing a well rite tank might be the fix you're looking for. Let's be honest, most of us don't spend our weekends thinking about water pressure—at least not until the shower turns into a pathetic trickle right when you've got shampoo in your eyes. That's usually when we realize that the big blue or tan cylinder in the basement or utility closet is actually the MVP of the household plumbing system.
A well tank is basically the lungs of your water system. It keeps the pressure steady and, more importantly, it gives your well pump a much-needed break. Without a solid tank, your pump would have to turn on every single time you flushed a toilet or rinsed a coffee mug. That constant "on-off" cycle (what pros call short cycling) is the fastest way to burn out an expensive pump. That's where the Well Rite series from Flexcon comes into play. They've been a staple in the industry for a long time, and for good reason.
What Makes These Tanks Different?
When you start shopping around, you'll notice a lot of tanks look identical from the outside. But the magic—or the frustration—is all on the inside. Most standard tanks use a simple rubber bladder or a single diaphragm to separate the water from the pressurized air. The problem is that over time, those bladders can rub against the tank walls, wear thin, and eventually pop. Once that happens, your tank becomes "waterlogged," and your pump starts acting crazy.
The well rite tank uses a slightly different approach. It features what's called a CAD2 diaphragm system. Instead of just a flimsy bag, it has a heavy-duty butyl rubber diaphragm combined with a copolymer polypropylene lower chamber. Essentially, the water is held in a dedicated "cell" that doesn't let it touch the outer steel walls of the tank. This is a big deal because it prevents the internal corrosion that kills a lot of cheaper tanks. It's a design that's built to take a beating and keep the air and water separated for years.
Why the Stainless Steel Connection Matters
One of the most annoying things about older well tanks was the galvanized or painted steel connections at the bottom. Since that's where the water enters and exits, it's a prime spot for rust. I've seen perfectly good tanks that had to be trashed just because the bottom elbow rusted through and started leaking.
Flexcon put a stainless steel water connection on the Well Rite models, which is a total game-changer. Stainless steel doesn't care about moisture or "aggressive" water that might be a bit acidic. It stays clean and solid. It might seem like a small detail, but when you're five years into owning the tank and you don't see a speck of rust on the floor, you'll be glad it's there. Plus, the exterior is finished with a high-quality epoxy paint that handles the humidity of a damp basement without bubbling or flaking off.
Sizing Your Tank Without the Headache
I get asked a lot about what size tank someone needs. A common mistake is thinking that a 20-gallon tank actually holds 20 gallons of water. It doesn't. Because a large portion of the tank is filled with compressed air, the actual amount of water you can pull out before the pump turns on—called the "drawdown"—is usually only about a third of the total volume.
If you have a well rite tank that's rated for 20 gallons, you might only get about 5 to 7 gallons of actual water out of it per cycle. If you have a big family or a high-demand home, you really want to lean toward a larger tank. A 34-gallon or 44-gallon tank is usually the "sweet spot" for an average home. It gives the pump a long rest between runs, which significantly extends the life of the motor. Honestly, if you have the space and the budget, bigger is almost always better when it comes to pressure tanks. It's like having a bigger gas tank in your car; you just don't have to fill up as often.
Installation Tips for the DIY Crowd
If you're handy and thinking about swapping the tank yourself, it's a totally doable project, but there are a few things you can't skip. First, you have to check the "pre-charge" air pressure before you even connect the water lines. This is the air inside the tank when it's completely empty.
Standard practice is to set the air pressure to 2 PSI below your pump's cut-in setting. So, if your pump is set to turn on at 30 PSI, your tank should be pumped up to 28 PSI. If you don't do this, the diaphragm won't move correctly, and the tank won't work the way it's supposed to. Use a high-quality tire gauge to check it at the Schrader valve on top of the tank. It's a simple step, but it's the one most people forget, and then they wonder why their water pressure feels wonky.
Also, don't forget to use a tank tee. It's that brass manifold that connects the tank to the rest of your plumbing. It makes it way easier to install a pressure gauge, a relief valve (which is a safety must-have!), and a drain valve. Having a drain valve right there makes it much easier to service the tank down the road when you need to check the air pressure again.
Keeping an Eye on Performance
Even a high-end well rite tank needs a quick check-up every now and then. I usually tell people to just tap on the top of the tank once or twice a year. It should sound hollow because the top half is filled with air. If it sounds like a solid "thud" all the way to the top, your tank might be waterlogged.
Another sign of trouble is if you notice your lights flickering when you're running water. That's often the well pump pulling a huge surge of electricity every time it clicks on. If it's clicking on and off every thirty seconds while you're washing dishes, your tank has likely lost its air charge or the diaphragm has failed. Catching this early is the difference between a $300 tank replacement and a $2,000 pump replacement. Trust me, you want the cheaper one.
The Verdict on Reliability
There are cheaper options at the big-box stores, sure. You can find generic tanks that will get the job done for a while. But if you're the type of person who wants to "set it and forget it," the Well Rite is a solid investment. The combination of the CAD2 diaphragm and the stainless steel base really puts it in a different league compared to the entry-level stuff.
It's one of those parts of your house that you should never have to think about. When it's working right, you have steady pressure, silent pipes, and a happy well pump. It's a bit of peace of mind wrapped in a steel shell. So, if you're looking to upgrade or you're tired of your current tank acting up, going with a reputable name is usually the path of least resistance. After all, life is too short to deal with bad water pressure.